Chapter 24: Motor Install

After doing a lot of work in the garage, it was finally time to do more work on the car. The engine isn't 100% done, but it's close, and it's almost ready to go back in the chassis. Before that, however, I had a few other things that needed attention. The car has been parked since the motor explosion, and the gas tank was never touched. Since I didn't want to run old gas through the new motor, I drained the tank while the engine was still out. Jumping the fuel pump relay is quite easy, and in 10 mins, the tank was nearly bone dry. The old motor also leaked a bit of oil, which I'm sure was not at all related to the significant blow-by it had <shifty eyes>. Several cans of foamy engine degreaser and a hose really cleaned up the engine bay (as clean as I'm going to get it anyway).

Degreased engine bay (yeah, I know, too many wires)

So, finally the day had arrived: time to mate the engine and the chassis together again. I conned some friends into helping me (which means they watched me work while laughing and eating my food). Before dropping in the motor, I installed the new clutch and bell housing while the engine was still on the hoist. Many readers will recall I just installed a new clutch in this car not too long before the engine failure. Why another new clutch? Well, I had installed a stock clutch, since, at the time, near stock power levels were all that I expected. Since I wasted so much money on this engine (tragically), reinstalling the stock clutch seemed like a recipe for failure. So, I sold that clutch and instead bought a new setup from Carolina Clutch. I went with the 6 puck, unsprung disc. While this will certainly not be a fun daily driver setup, it should have no problem holding the power. While drag racing is not a part of this car's main purpose, beating the drag racers at their own game is fun. Previously, I think either my clutch or dual mass flywheel was slipping, resulting in horrible 60' times despite no tire spin. I reused my aluminum flywheel without any resurfacing, since it has all of 100 miles on it.

Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing installed on the hoist.

Now it was time to drop in the motor. When I pulled it, I had taken the trans out first and pulled the engine from the side without removing the hood. The hood is big, heavy, and already lined up with my hood pins. Removing it seemed like a chore I could avoid. I did have to remove the right front wheel to provide clearance for the engine hoist. It took a bit more manuvering than I thought it would, but it went it without any major issues. LT1 y-body motor mounts are very easy to use: the studs point directly at the ground, and lining them up is very straight forward. The engine leveler really helps with trying to get the engine to fit just right.

If you look closely under the brake rotor, you can see the jack stand holding the car up.

Engine leveler...don't leave home without it.

Once the engine was in, the real fun could start, installing the trans. I jacked the car as high up as my stands will allow. Installing the trans really isn't that hard: all the bell housing bolts are easy to reach and the engine even tilts back to give easy access. The hardest part was getting it on the trans jack while it was under the car (you install ZF6's with the shifter already on, since it is about a 3 hours job once it's in). I don't have any pictures of the trans install, because, well, my friends were too lazy to get out of their lawn chairs and get under the car to take any. After getting the trans stabbed, in went the driveshaft and c-beam. Of course, the c-beam holes didn't line up (I hope I installed those motor mounts right...), but a little 'factory adjustment' with a prybar (and by prybar, I mean flat head screw driver) and everything went together.

Sadly, I still don't have all the parts I need to get it running just yet. Details, details, details. But, I will leave you with a few shots of the engine after the install to hold you over.

The intake isn't on to stay, but it works well to help seal up the valley.

Huge Canton RR Pan.

Ready for flight!

Update: 7/29/2008

More progress to report. Details, details, details. Since installing the engine in the car, I have been working on the details: lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, oil coolers, radiators, hoses, lines, fittings, sensors, wiring, etc. With the old engine, the oil temp was always too warm for comfort at the track. A typical track day with air temps in the 90's+ would cause 300+ oil temps. I was using Mobil 1, which should be OK at the temp, it was still certainly not helping anything. Wanting this motor to last, I decided early on it would have an oil cooler. Many people use the plate type coolers in front of the radiator, but this blocks air from getting to the radiator. I went with a radiator with a built in oil cooler. Some companies make direct-fit radiators for C4's with oil coolers, but they are (predictably) expensive: $550+. I found a nice all aluminum unit from Coleman Racing for $200 less, and it was very close to the right size. A little trimming here and there and it fits great. In order to keep oil flow (and therefore pressure) up, I plumbed the cooler with -12 lines. Making the two hoses was a great way to blow almost $200.... I test fit my old headers with this hose setup, and it clears the oil lines fine. I'm holding my breath that the new ones do as well.

Since the old motor had 150K miles and this one should (will?) make significantly more power, the stock injectors weren't going to cut it. After some research, I decided to go with some Lucas/Delphi 42 lbs/hr injectors from Racetronix. The price was very good and they drop right in to the fuel rail and plug right up to the factory wiring harness. They are a bit of over-kill for this application (37 lbs/hr would work), but it's nice to know I won't have to run up my fuel pressure or up the duty cycle to stupid levels to get the fuel I need, and the price is the same as the smaller ones. It's good to see tape coming off of the motor and parts going on.

The engine is almost ready to fire. The only part I'm lacking is headers. I'm still waiting... I ordered them as part of a group buy back in May. 5-6 weeks has already turned into 9 weeks. I've been told they have shipped, but I'm not really sure I believe them. We'll see if they show up this week or not. I'm waiting to install the accessory bracket and belt until after the headers are in. While they could go on after the bracket, the headers will be easier with the bracket off.

Hopefully I'll have some good news within a week...

Modified upper shroud for radiator cap (stock radiator was cap-less).

Big and all aluminum.

-12 lines and fittings are HUGE!

Getting closer and closer....I just need headers.

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