Chapter 23: Motor build

Well, the unthinkable happened: the machine shop finished my bottom end. They called me late on Friday, and I picked it up Tuesday morning. I actually have a nice, pretty short block in my garage. Sadly, I don't have any pics up yet (school is crazy right now: last minute tests and projects), but hopefully over the weekend I can share the wonder. The bill wasn't too bad; just under $865 for boring the block, clearance the block for the stroker crank, balance the rotating asembly, get bearings, freeze plugs, and a rear main seal, file the rings, and assemble the rotating assembly. Everything looks good so far. While part of me wants to take a few bolts loose and check the torque, another part of me says leave it alone. We'll see if I get the guts to mess with it.

Now the hold up is getting the rest of the parts to finish the engine. While I have many parts, many more are yet to come. I have another big order ready; just need a bit more cash to make sure my account doesn't go from black to red. Hopefully this chapter REALLY WILL follow the actual build of the motor.

Scat Crank, ARP Main Studs, Childs and Alberts Rods

Under side of Mahle Piston

The rotating assembly balanced out pretty well, without needing any Mallory metal.

Flat top 5cc Mahle forged pistons

Ready for more parts!

Update: 5/15/2008

Progess is a bit slow, but things really ARE getting done. I had some trouble finding the proper Woodruff keys for the crank, but I finally got a pair. I got the timing gears and chain installed, as well as the timing cover. My oil pump pickup woes contined. Canton just doesn't make the proper pickup for the pump I had (Melling 10552). I tired to modify one of their pickups to work, but it looked like it would get messy and I didn't want to risk it, so I bought a complete pump/pickup packge from Canton. It SHOULD fit (and if it doesn't, there will be hell to pay), and once I get it (next week sometime), I can get the oil pan on and then the heads. Once that is done, I can install the valve train and measure for pushrods.

Newly installed LT1/4 Extreme timing set, with ZERO slack.

Update: 5/25/2008

Finally, more progress is being made. I *finally* got an oil pump/pickup that fits my pan. So I got the oil pan installed, as well as the oil filter adapter and an oil filter. LT1 C4's use a different adapter and filter than an LT1 f-body to provide more room for the catalytic converter. I'm going to run an oil cooler to keep this engine alive longeer, so the factory piece had to go. Luckily, I'm 'relocating' my cats with headers, so there is enough room to run a full size filter on a Canton adapter.

Flow Balanced Melling Oil Pump from Canton.

Canton Road Race oil pan with trap doors.

Canton billet oil filter adapter with oil cooler fittings.

Next, I bolted the Lloyd Elliot heads on with the Mr. Gasket Ultra Seal .026" head gaskets and ARP bolts. Rather than guess at the proper pushrod length, I went ahead and used an adjustable length pushrod to make sure I get my valvetrain geometery right. You can see the checker valve springs on cylinder #1. Things are getting closer. Once I get a clutch and new motor mounts, I'll probably go ahead and put the engine in the car. Sadly, the intake needs to stay off until right before start up, since I can't prime the oil pump with the intake on.

Rocker studs and guide plates installed, ready to check pushrod length.

Waiting for more parts!

Update: 6/20/2008

More progress to report. Opti spark is on, along with the damper. This new ATI piece is nice: all aluminum, underdrive pulley. It is just small enough to allow the opti to come off without removing it. Also, it should keep the engine running smooth all the way up to the 7000 rpm redline. I finally got some motor mounts. After searching the internet, I could not find ANYONE who makes a performance poly or solid motor mount for LTx y-bodies. I didn't want to put stock style, oil filled mounts back on, so I keep looking. OReilly's showed a listing for stock style mounts, but made from solid rubber (no oil). It took them a week, but they found me a pair.

The engine is almost ready to be dropped back into the car. Headers are paid for and on the way. Clutch is here already. I just need to remove one stripped out plug to put in the passenger side knock sensor, and the engine will go back in the car. Then I can put in the clutch, trans, etc. The to buy list is getting shorter: pushrods, injectors, and oil lines and fittings for the oil cooler are all that I lack to get it running. Then there are a few more things that I want to replace before going to the dyno.

Looking more and more like a complete motor.

Motor mounts, after lots of looking and waiting.

Rotor-less opti and ATI damper.

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